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Created by CJ

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Welcome to Created by CJ

Longarm Machine Quilting Services

&

Custom Quilts for Sale

by CJ Tinkle

Russellville, AR ☏ (479) 264-3159 ✉ sales@createdbycj.com

How to Prepare Your Quilt Top for Quilting

QUILT TOP  

Your quilt top must be square to be loaded and quilted successfully. Measure the opposite sides of your quilt to see how closely they match. If the opposite sides are off by more than 1-2″, you MUST correct this before sending it to be quilted.

If you want to embellish your quilt top with beads, buttons, or other objects, wait until I return the quilt to you.

Press your top flat, from the back, so you can direct the seams correctly. Please make sure your iron is ON when pressing! (grin)!

Trim any loose threads, especially those that may show under lighter areas of your blocks.

Inspect your quilt top for any seams which have come loose, and repair them. I quilt at high speeds, and any holes or open seams can catch in my machine’s foot and rip the quilt. Ack!

If your quilt has no borders or the borders are pieced, please stay stitch an 1/8th of an inch around the outside edge of the quilt so that the seams don’t pull loose when stretched on the rollers.

Mark the center of your quilt top at the top and bottom with safety pins. If your quilt has a definite “top” edge, pin a note to the quilt there as well. That will help me to determine the best way to load your quilt so that the design will face the correct direction.

If your quilt top has embroidery, appliqué, or folded fabric techniques such as prairie points or pleats, be sure to let me know whether it is OK to quilt over them when you discuss the quilt design.

DO NOT layer your quilt top, batting, and backing together or baste them in any way. The quilt gets loaded on three separate roller bars, and I cannot load the quilt if it is already basted, especially if it has been basted with pins.

BORDER TIPS

Perhaps the most common problem encountered by machine quilters are borders with extra fullness that will not lay flat, causing tucks or pleats during the machine quilting, as pictured to the left.

By the time you finish piecing your quilt top, the edge will usually have stretched somewhat, especially if there are any bias pieces on the edge. If you just measure the edges of the top to get the measurement for your borders, you will almost always end up with a quilt that will NOT hang or lay flat.  I will do my best to “quilt out” any puffiness, but I can’t guarantee that if your borders are not flat.

To ensure your borders are applied correctly:

  • Measure your quilt in 3 places lengthwise: left, right, and center. Add those measurements and divide by 3 to get an average. For example 71 inches +72 inches +70 inches = 213 inches. Divide by 3 equals an average of 71 inches.
  • Cut the two side borders to this measurement, in this case 71 inches. Pin border to quilt at each end and center, ease to fit, and pin to distribute any fullness. Sew and press.
  • Repeat this process widthwise for top and bottom borders.
  • Repeat process for any additional borders.

BATTING & BACKING 

Mark top edge of backing fabric if directional.

Cut the backing and batting (if providing your own) 4-6 inches larger than your top on all sides, and trim so that the fabric is square. This will allow the backing to be pinned evenly to the canvas leaders.  It also gives the quilter (me) room to quilt all the way to the edge of your top, without running into the side clamps.  If it’s a king size quilt, 8 inches is better!

The backing must be square, so it can be pinned to the leaders on the longarm frame.  If the backing isn’t square, the quilt will not roll properly, and the end result will be distorted.

If your backing is pieced, the seams should be horizontal, not vertical, or the quilt will not roll up evenly and the quilting may be distorted.  The seam creates added bulk when rolling around the take up roller if it’s a vertical seam, creating a “hump” will pulls the center of the quilt more tightly than the sides.

Remove ALL selvages if you have to seam the back, both from seams and along the edges.

Printed backings enhance the finished quilt and will help hide any “starts & stops” necessary when changing threads and bobbins.

If you pre-washed the fabrics in your quilt top, then also pre-wash your backing.